Aging Gracefully

When a zinfandel or merlot (and most red wine) is young, generally within 3-5 years of the vintage date on the bottle, it shows a lot of deep purple color, intensive fruit in the nose, somewhat hot alcohol to the taste and less overall smoothness than it will show later in its life. As the wine ages, the alcohol, tannic acid (from the grape skins and the oak in the barrel) and fruit flavors start to soften up and blend together to present a more smooth and finished wine. Often the differences in taste between young wine and well aged wine are extremely evident and aged wine is very desirable. How do you do that?

Please note that you, the consumer, have very little control over the many winemaking variables that affect wine aging, but have some control over cellar storage conditions that affect aging, namely temperature, light, humidity and vibration.

Out here in California there are darned few houses built with cellars in them. You can "cellar" a wine in a closet or pay big bucks for a temperature and humidity controlled cabinet in which you can store your treasures. If you are interested in and have the personal discipline to cellar some wines over the several years it takes, here is a tip before you start

Some wine does not get better with age, it just gets older. This is particularly true of most white wines and for certain sparkling wine or Champagne. I have shed tears over unopened bottles of excellent French Champagne that were saved in a well-intentioned effort from someone's wedding 20 years ago. Champagne is meant to be consumed shortly after it is released. It does not improve in the bottle after it is released.

The key to cellaring is to start with something that has the potential to improve. In red wines that usually means a big, well-made and probably expensive cabernet sauvignon, pinot noir, zinfandel or merlot or port. In whites a really big oaked chardonnay or a very sweet, rich, dessert wine such as true Sauternes or a German trockenbeerenauslese. I am afraid the "expensive" part of that statement is very true.

The most important variable in aging wine is the temperature at which it is stored. Not simply the number of degrees, but the RANGE of the temperatures. If you had a perfect situation and could hold your wines at 65F year round you would be set. However, if that temperature fluctuates from 50F to 70F or higher you may just as well drink it now. What happens is the liquid in the bottle expands and contracts with the temperature and eventually pushes around the cork, breaking the seal and allowing air to enter. This starts a chain reaction of microbial actions. Result: spoiled expensive old wine and tears of frustration.

Do I need to tell you to store wine on its side so that the cork stays moist and doesn't dry out? If you fail to do this see the paragraph above, because the result is the same.

Collecting and aging wine takes money, care, time, money, knowledge and money. If you have got all those, it can be a worthwhile and rewarding pursuit. At one point in the not so distant past, there were French red wines you simply HAD to age, as they were literally undrinkable when first released and were purchased by cognoscenti who would not have dreamed of opening them for at least 10 years! Such winemaking techniques have generally faded from the scene and so most wine is now released ready to be splashed into a glass and consumed. If you find one that could be saved and improved, try to do so, for your own wine education.
About the Author

Paul Kreider, who made his first wine in 1975, is the owner and winemaker of the Ross Valley Winery in San Anselmo, California.